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Detailing:
Detailing begins with the Customer, not the Car
1. Detailing is a Process
2. Pre-Qualification
of the Vehicle
3. Wet
Work - Get Ready to Detail
4. Auto-Detailing Rule One
5. Washing & Drying
6.
Polishers
7.
Wax
8.
Interiors
9. Engine
10.
Paint and Touch Up
11.
The Task Rotation Method
Vehicle evaluation and cleaning
come later.
From
the January 1998 edition of Professional Car washing &
Detailing magazine. For a free introductory subscription,
click here.
Detailing
is the art of creating or restoring automotive beauty. Your
customer's underlying motives may be aesthetic, personal or
commercial. For whatever reason, they come to you with a desire
to improve the appearance of their vehicle.
As
a professional your challenge is to satisfy their expectations.
Your shop contains the tools and products necessary to improve
the appearance of just about any vehicle, but do you have
the knowledge to understand, shape and meet the customer's
expectations?
Detailing
is a process
 Detailing
is more than just starting at the front of a vehicle and working
back. If you have ever watched an experienced detailer work,
you may have noticed that they follow a procedure. There is
a method behind their professionalism. Just as there are many
ways to buff a car, there are many ways to detail a car. One
of the best is a process that starts and ends with the customer.
This procedure has four steps:
1.
Pre-qualification of the vehicle and wet work
2. Interior
cleaning
3. Paint restoration
4. Final detailing
and inspection of the vehicle.
To
accomplish the first step, which involves evaluating the vehicle's
condition and performing the actual cleaning, a detailer must
have a thorough understanding of the customer's expectations.
Pre-qualification
of the vehicle
Before you begin work on a vehicle, you must
review it with the customer. Find out what they expect you
to do and decide whether or not you are able to satisfy them.
The
best way is to start a checklist with the customer. A good
checklist should begin with an evaluation of the vehicle.
While
you are with the owner discuss the job's requirements and
your capabilities.
Look for things like:
1.
Rust
2. Dents and
body damage
3. Delaminated
and severely faded paint
4. Insufficient
paint thickness
5. Crazing of
paint
6. Missing trim
and moldings
7. Tears, stains
and excessive wear in the interior
Other
damage that requires replacement or extensive repair beyond
the capabilities of the shop.
If
you can't repaint a vehicle or do body work, there is nothing
you can do to restore body damage, rust, peeling or severely
faded paint.
Both
the customer and your interests are best served if you refuse
a job up front rather than try to explain that there were
some things you just couldn't do when the customer comes to
pick up their vehicle.
The
pre-qualification portion of the checklist should provide
spaces for an overall evaluation, specific observations and
comments.
Usually
a pre-qualification checklist covers the following five areas:
1. Overall condition of the
vehicle
2. Condition
of the vehicle's paint
3. Exterior
damage
4. Condition
of the vehicle's interior
5. Special requests
by the customer and comments.
Wet
work - getting ready to detail
Wet work is the cleaning stage that involves
washing the heavily soiled areas of a vehicle, such as the
exterior, engine compartment, wheels, tires and doorjambs.
Some
detailers call it pre-cleaning because removing the dirt uncovers
all the surface defects.
This
is also where detailing and car washing diverge. Car washing
focuses on dirt removal, while detailing emphasizes both dirt
removal and restoration.
A wet work checklist includes cleaning the following six areas:
1. Engine (cleaned
and dressed)
2. Doorjambs
and sills
3. Exterior
4. Vinyl or
convertible top
5. Wheels and
tires
6. Spare tire.
7. One bay or
two?
Some
detailers also include cleaning the vehicle's interior as
part of the wet work.
This
is a controversial area. If your shop has the space, we recommend
that wet work be performed in a separate area that has good
drainage. By having and using a wash rack only for wet work,
there is little chance of water or cleaner splashing and spoiling
several hours work.
In
addition, by performing tasks in two locations you can move
vehicles through your shop more efficiently.
Because
interior cleaning tasks and techniques are different from
those required for wet work, you can perform interior cleaning
in the same bay where paint is restored and final detailing
is performed.
In
a large shop, each detailer can have their own work area and
equipment. Your suppliers can help you design and equip your
shop with the tools necessary to operate at maximum efficiency.
John
Lamade is the marketing manager for Malco Products, Inc.,
Barberton, OH.
From
the January 1998 edition of Professional Carwashing &
Detailing magazine. For a free introductory subscription,
click here.
All
Content Copyright 2002
National Trade Publications Inc.
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We all love our cars. And perhaps our proudest
moment is when the car is new and looks its best. A car, however,
is not like a painting, which serves its purpose in a controlled
and safe environment. It is subjected to all sorts of abuses
including the sun, dirt, and smog, all of which can affect
the best automobile. But you can keep your car in new condition
just like a painting protected in a museum. The WebCars! "Auto
Detailing: Secrets of the Experts" page will show you
how.
Auto Detailing Rule Number One.
 We
start with scratches. Why? Because they are the biggest enemy
to your car's finish. And avoiding scratches
is the secret to keeping your car looking good. Dirt and grime,
rubbed in while washing or drying, will act like sandpaper
and dull your car's paint. There several rules which will
guide you whenever you touch the surface
of your automobile:
1.
Anything that comes in contact with your car's finish should
be soft. Harsh or rough
surfaces should be avoided.
2.
Use only clean, freshly washed towels to dry or to apply materials
to the surface of your car.
3.
Rinse thoroughly the sponges or wash mitts and the wash bucket
before and after you wash your car.
4.
Many detailers separate the areas being washed into normal
and rough areas.
The painted surfaces of the car are the normal areas and tires;
the engine, wheel
wells and so on are designated as the rough areas. They then
use only certain wash
mitts or sponges for each area, keeping scratch generating
dirt and grime away from
sensitive areas.
5.
Use a gentle stream of water when rinsing. Using high water
pressure
from the hose will cause dirt to grind into the paint, causing
scratches.
6.
Use generous amounts of water when rinsing. Scratch causing
dirt particles
will tend to float if enough water
is used.
Washing/Drying
Start by THOROUGHLY rinsing the car. As we said in rule #1,
use lots of water and a gentle stream to avoid scratches.
Excessive water pressure will cause the dirt to grind at the
surface. Some detailers prefer to let the water flow freely
out of the hose without the benefit of a nozzle.
Use
a detergent designed specifically for car washing. Don't use
common dishwashing detergent, as it is too strong and will
remove the wax you want to keep.
There
really isn't a lot to washing a car; simply mix detergent
according to the manufacturers' directions, dip your sponge
or mitt into the bucket and have at it. There are a few guidelines
to follow however:
· Use generous amounts
of water/detergent. On this Miata, which is a relatively
small car, I'll use 3 or 4 buckets. On a medium sized car,
such as a Honda Accord,
5 or 6 buckets will do the job.
· When you wash a car,
do it in sections. Start with the roof, which will make
rinsing easier. Then do other sections, such as the front
fender, door, rear fender
and so on, rinsing thoroughly in between. Always rinse soon
after applying so a soap
film does not develop. Do not suds up the entire car and then
rinse; some of the soap
will dry and a film like substance will remain.
· After
washing, rinse the entire car just to be sure all the soap
is cleared away.
Don't forget the nooks, crannies and crevices where soap can
hide.
· If
the car is particularly dirty, wash it twice. The first washing
will take care of
the majority of the dirt and the second will complete the
job. Some car
enthusiasts will wash twice as part of their routine.
· Car
washing will go a lot quicker if 2 people are on the job.
One will do the sudsing, while the other follows close behind
with the rinsing hose.
·
Drying
Dry thoroughly, using a generous supply of the softest towels
you can find. Fold the towel into a manageable square and
turn it over or unfold it frequently to take advantage of
its entire surface. Used towels seem to work best, probably
because repeated washings have softened them. Bath towels
work well, although it may be more practical to cut them in
half.
Drying
is best accomplished as a two-part process. The first time
you will get rid of most of the water and the second pass
will complete the job. As with rinsing, do not forget the
various nooks and crannies, which can trap water.
Miscellaneous
Notes:
· We
do not recommend using a chamois, since they can trap dirt
and cause scratches.
· If possible, do not
wash a car in bright sunlight. Soapsuds can dry, which will
leave a film. "Water spotting" also can occur when
drops of water act like miniature
magnifying glasses in bright sunlight. If a shaded area is
not available, try washing
in the late afternoon or early morning hours when the sun
is not strong.
· Don't
forget to wash the headlights and surrounding areas if your
car is
equipped with pop-up headlights.
· Do
not wash under a tree, as the sap can damage the paint.
Polishers
The finish of a car is always wet, even if
it is dry. To make sense of this statement, consider the fact
that paint needs certain oils to keep its fresh glossy look.
Ultraviolet rays from the sun and smog can dry up these essential
oils, and the result is a dull and flat finish known as oxidation.
If you could look at oxidized paint under a high- powered
microscope, you would see a surface that looks dry and cracked,
like the desert.
When it occurs, oxidation appears as dull and
dry spots on the finish and usually is first noticed on the
flat horizontal areas of the car. If paint residue appears
on your wash mitt, you definitely have an oxidation problem.
The solution to oxidation is to remove the uppermost surface
of dead paint. To do that we have three basic choices:
· Cleaner
· Polish
· Rubbing
compound.
Each of these work by removing unwanted paint
from the surface of the car. Rubbing compound removes the
most amount of paint for a given application while polishes
remove the least, with cleaners somewhere in between.
Obviously, removing paint should be taken seriously.
The trick is to remove only as much paint as necessary. For
this reason, we recommend starting with an application of
cleaner. This should do the trick if you have a case of light
oxidation. If the cleaner does not seem to have enough of
an effect, try an application of polish. Polish can also get
rid of deep scratches. Using an orbital buffer will make the
job go much faster. However, the polish or cleaner should
be designed for machine use. Rubbing compound is so strong
that I hesitate to recommend it to amateurs.
Important Note:
Since using cleaners or polishes removes paint,
it will also remove the wax on top of the paint. Be sure to
re-wax any area that has had a polish, cleaner or rubbing
compound treatment. If a cleaner or polish application doesn't
get the job done, rubbing compound may be the solution. Rubbing
compound is a strong abrasive however, and should be taken
seriously. For that reason, we recommend that you turn the
task over to a professional.
You
won't often need to use a polish or cleaner if you diligently
follow the advice in this page. If you wash your car regularly
and maintain a good coat of wax, contaminants won't have the
chance to ruin the cars finish. A polish or cleaner treatment
is worth considering when a new car is purchased, since the
vehicle has probably spent a few months without proper cosmetic
maintenance. A recently purchased used car is also a prime
candidate, especially if the previous owner did not followed
good detailing habits
Here is an example of where a cleaner was useful. A piece
of rubber lying on the freeway which used to be a part of
a trucks' retread tire was kicked up by a car and flew backwards,
hitting the fender of this Honda. The sheet metal was not
affected, but it left its mark in the surface of the paint.
An application of Meguiar's Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner
took care of it nicely. The affected area was then re-waxed.
Wax
Once
you are comfortable with the condition of the paint, it is
time to think of a coating of wax. Wax functions as a paint
preserver by helping it to retain certain oils that reduce
oxidation. It also serves to protect from environmental hazards
such as bird droppings, tree sap, smog and the sun's ultraviolet
rays. And it gives paint the depth, gloss and richness that
can make all those detailing hours worthwhile.
Wax
is available in three forms: liquid, paste and spray. As a
general rule, liquid wax goes on easier, but does not last
as long as the paste products. Which one you use is your choice.
Our only recommendation is that you choose one with a high
Carnauba content. Unfortunately, there really isn't any way
to determine Carnauba content other than to say that if it
is prominent on the label, it's a safe bet. Avoid spray waxes,
as they are too thin to be of any real use.
We
recommend two medium applications of wax rather than a single
heavy one. You can use the round applicators that come with
some waxes or are available separately. A damp rectangular
kitchen sponge makes a good applicator, as its shape seems
to be able to handle the detail areas of a car. An extra application
is a good idea on the nose and hood, where the wind will quickly
wear off the wax.
What
Goes On, Must Come Off
When the wax is dry, remove the residue using
only a very soft cloth. As soon as the cloth movement feel
has resistance, find a fresh surface. Using an orbital buffer
will speed the job up nicely. A straight (non orbital)
buffer would be even faster, but if you are not careful you
risk "burning" the paint. For that reason, we recommend
our fellow non-professionals stick with an orbital buffer.
Always keep an eye on the surface of the cloth you are using,
since any dirt or foreign objects can cause scratches.
The
hard part is removing the wax residue from the various creases
and edges. The edges of the doors, trunk, hood and so on are
easy; just open them and go over the area with a soft cloth.
Fixed items, such as side marker lights, badges, radio antennas,
windshield washer nozzles, etc. are more difficult.
Some
detailers use a soft bristled toothbrush. This approach works,
although we urge caution as scratches can occur if you are
not careful. A toothpick can be effective sometimes. It might
even be worthwhile to remove some items (badges, side marker
lamps, for example) before applying the wax. One Corvette
owner we know modified the badges on his car to make them
removable with wing nuts whenever a wax job came up
We
recommend that you wax your car once every three months -
more if the car is exposed to harsh conditions. When it comes
to deciding if it's time for a new coat of wax, the time-honored
water-beading test can't be topped. While you are doing the
wash pre-rinse, notice how the water drops bead up. If the
drops are more than one-half inch diameter, or if the water
tends to form "sheets" as in the photo on the left,
then a new wax job is a good idea.
Neat Trick Department
Probably the most troublesome part as far as
cleaning wax residue is the windshield washer nozzles. Try
protecting them with masking tape before you apply the wax.
Glass Cleaner
A friend once said to me "Glass cleaning
is an art." Clean glass is important if only because
dirt and other problems are more obvious on window glass.
There
are any number of glass cleaners available, most of which
contain ammonia, that do a good job of cleaning glass. Homemade
recipes are popular and effective however. A simple one consists
of 1/3 white vinegar and 2/3 water. A more complicated concoction
is:
· 1/2
cup sudsey ammonia
· 1
pint 70% isopropyl alcohol
· 1
tablespoon dishwashing detergent
· 1
gallon water
Others
insist plain water is best, and some go to the trouble to
use distilled water or collected rainwater.
A
thorough glass cleaning is actually a three-part process.
First, wash the glass with soap and water along with the rest
of the car. Then use your chosen cleaner to clean both the
inside and outside of the glass. Cleaning the inside is particularly
important for newer cars, as interior plastics release gaseous
materials (popularly known as "that new car smell")
that leave a film.
The
last step should be a dry pass, again on both the inside and
out. Use a clean cotton cloth or paper towel without any cleaner.
If you use paper towels, stay away from any that have a design
printed on them. While doing the dry clean step, inspect the
glass carefully from various angles for residue and other
imperfections. Done properly, you should be able to eliminate
all streaking.
Glass
cleaning should never be attempted in direct sunlight or if
the glass surface is warm. Use plenty of towels so that you
will have a fresh one for each portion of the glass.
Some
detailers use old newspaper to dry clean automotive glass,
which has a polishing effect.
Interiors
We spend all these hours working on our cars
as a present to ourselves. That is why many enthusiasts feel
that detailing the interior is more important than the body,
because that is where we spend most of our time. It would
therefore make sense that we take special care that the inside
of our car is not neglected.
A
thorough interior cleaning involves removal of the seats.
It's extra work, but it does allow you to reach hard to get
areas and do a more thorough job.
Vacuuming
should be the first step. Use a strong shop or home vacuum.
The small ones that plug into a cigar lighter or operate on
rechargeable batteries just don't have the power to do the
job. Remove the floor mats and do them separately.
Next apply a good grade foam carpet cleaner
according to the manufacturers directions to the cloth and
carpet areas. Do the floor mats outside of the car. Since
many floor mats are essentially plastic, some enthusiasts
will wash their floor mats outside of the car as part of the
regular routine of washing the exterior. For cleaning of vinyl
surfaces, we use Simple Green, diluted to about 1 part Simple
Green to 8 parts water. You can vary that ratio, although
as a general rule we recommend using only the minimum strength
to get the job done.
Left:
Use cotton Q-tips to access the hard to get areas such as
climate control
ducts and corners. The trick may seem like a cliché',
but it works.
Right:
Most instrument clusters are viewed through
clear plastic. When cleaning plastic, use only non-abrasive
plastic polish and cleaners such as Meguiars' #10 and #17
along with the softest towels you can find. The problem with
abrasive cleaners is that they leave minute scratches, which
will tend to "fog" plastic. The plastic rear windows
found on some convertibles should get the same treatment.
Left:
For Leather surfaces, we recommend Lexol-ph Leather Cleaner
used according to the directions. Right: Don't leave coins
on your seat. Doing so can cause premature wear to the material.
Engine
Keeping an engine clean does more than to enhance
its appearance. Oil and fluid leaks will be easy to spot.
A clean engine will run cooler and is easier to repair and
maintain.
Start
your engine cleaning routine by putting a plastic bag over
the engine air intake. You may also want to protect other
parts from moisture, such as the distributor and electrical
parts. Aluminum foil often works where it is not possible
to use a plastic bag.
Washing the engine is different from washing
the exterior of the car since the dirt and grease can be tougher
to remove. Making it easier is the fact that since most of
the engine compartment does not have a glossy finish, we don't
have to worry about scratches. For that reason, it is ok to
rinse using high water pressure. You can then go at it with
liberal amounts of soap and water. Unlike the exterior, it
is ok to use common dishwashing detergent, since its grease
cutting abilities can make the job go faster. You should use
a mitt or sponge other than the one used on the car body however.
If you've been regularly cleaning your engine, then an application
of soap and water should do the trick. If grease and grime
still remain, more drastic steps may be required. Stronger
cleaners or solvents will handle the problem areas. A 50-50
mixture of kerosene and water will make a good homebrew grease
cutter. If necessary, use a putty knife or paintbrush, with
its bristles cut short for stiffness, to loosen the tough
areas. SOS pads also work well on metal surfaces. A toothbrush
can be used to take care of detail areas. Dry using an assortment
of hand towels.
Battery
corrosion and the battery box can best be cleaned with a 50-50
mixture of water and baking soda. The towels or rags used
to clean the battery should not be used on any other part
of the car.
Dressings can be applied to plastic surfaces and electrical
insulation for a clean, new look. We don't recommend that
you attempt to clean a hot engine, since it is dangerous and
some parts could be damaged. We also hesitate to recommend
steam cleaning. It can do an impressive job on those engines
that have years of grime on them, but the process is harsh
and can destroy valuable decals.
For
a nice final touch, wash and wax the underside of the hood.
It'll set the engine off well and complete the job nicely.
Dressings
A word about 'dressings'. They are silicone-based
products such as Armor All or Son of a Gun. Although detailers
commonly use them, they are also controversial. Some feel
that the vinyl areas will crack if regular treatment ceases.
Others complain that the dressings used on paint will get
into the metal and cause a fisheye effect on areas that are
repainted. But many detailers like the finish and gloss they
provide.
There
is good news however. Used properly, they can revitalize many
parts of a car, such as weather beaten convertible tops and
vinyl roofs. We do have some recommendations however. Different
products result in different gloss levels, so try various
brands to find the one that gives you the desired results.
Apply it sparingly, as it can be easily overdone. Also important:
do a thorough job of removing the excess dressing.
One
definite recommendation we can make is to never use a dressing
on an air bag. There have been reports that doing so can change
the vinyl and adversely affect the way that they deploy. We
also advise against using dressings on the surfaces of pedals
or any other area where a slippery surface could be a safety
problem.
Paint touch-up
Unless you never drive your car, small rocks
and other debris will chip your paint. It's unavoidable and
frustrating, since the scars are too small to justify painting
the affected area, but they are still noticeable. Fortunately,
touching up the paint can be done on a Do-It-Yourself basis.
It takes a bit of patience, but the results are worth it.
Materials
· Nick
Sander (or equivalent). Best described as "coarse sandpaper
on a pen"
it gives you the ability to focus the preparation of the surface.
· Unigrit
Sanding blocks from Mequiars. Get the K1000 (1000 grit), K2000
(2000 grit) and K3000 (3000 grit, roughly the texture of newspaper!)
Available from
your local auto paint store, and often by special order. The
Meguiars' web site can
help you locate a dealer.
· Touch-up
paint. Use only paint from the dealer; anything else may not
match well.
Also, do not use paint more than 6 months old.
·
Wax remover. Like the unigrit sanding blocks, it is available
at your local auto paint store.
· Meguiars
Fine Cut Cleaner.
· Your
favorite automotive polish; Meguiars' Glaze Swirl Remover
works well.
· Your
favorite automotive wax.
Start by washing the car (or at least the affected
area) and then cleaning the area with the wax remover. Next
treat the area with the Nick Sander, (above, left) making
sure that all the adjacent area paint that is not well bonded
with the body surface is removed.
The
next step is to apply the paint. There is any number of gimmicks
(brushes inside the cap of the paint bottle, etc.) to accomplish
this, and I really haven't seen one that I like. My preferred
method is to pour a small amount of paint into a small dish
and then use the paper end of a cardboard matchstick to apply
the paint. Other detailers have found that a toothpick works
well. Be sure to shake the paint thoroughly. Apply it in 2
or 3 layers, building it up so that it is well above the surface
of the surrounding paint. If the damage is on a vertical surface,
you'll want to protect the area below by applying only small
amounts of paint, allowing it to dry (about 1/2 hour+) between
applications, and using masking tape and paper to prevent
dripping. Allow 24 hours to dry.
You'll
then want to sand and polish the paint. Start with the K1000
sanding block (soak them all in water overnight) and sand
VERY GENTLY. Inspect your progress often (this is where the
patience part is important) and move on to the K2000 and then
K3000 sanding blocks until the surface of the touch-up paint
and the surrounding paint is even. The area will have a dull
finish from the sandpaper, which is taken care of by the Meguiars
Fine Cut Cleaner. Finish the job by polishing and waxing the
area.
This
may seem like a lot of work, but the results are impressive.
In the case of the ding on this Mazda Miata, you would be
hard pressed to tell where the repair was made unless it was
pointed out to you.
Notes
· Light
(such as white) colored cars are difficult to get a good color
match,
while dark colored cars (black for example) are the easiest.
I've even seen respectable
results using a "Magic Marker" pen on a black car.
The "Classic Red" on the Mazda Miata
was a dark color, so the color match was good.
· In
the case of this Miata, even after a week of drying, the touch-up
paint was soft,
especially compared to the surrounding areas. In the first
attempt, I easily sanded to
below the surface, and found that the K3000 sanding block
was all I really needed. At
almost $15 for each sanding block, I could have easily saved
some valuable beer money!
Your results, of course, may vary.
· We
recently became aware of a product that might be of interest
to anyone doing
a paint touch-up job. It's called "LANGKA - The BLOB
Eliminator". We haven't tried it yet;
if you do we'd appreciate it if you could pass along your
results. More information can be
found at http://www.langka.com/.
MISCELLANEOUS
· Wash
the windshield wipers using the sponge or mitt reserved for
harsh applications.
· Apply
a coating of WD-40 or similar lubricant to your antenna mast.
This will make
rising and lowering it easier and can make an electric unit
more reliable.
· Most
of the time it is best to apply a spray product to an application
cloth,
rather than directly on the surface being treated.
This will prevent over spray
from affecting nearby areas.
· Others
may disagree, but IMHO, bumper stickers, decals, license plate
frames
with messages and other forms of distraction have no place
on a well detailed car.
· A
simple black or chrome license plate frame is a nice touch
however. Be sure
that any legally required license plate registration tags
are on straight and cover
the previous years sticker. Some detailers will go so far
as to position the slots on
the screw heads so that they are both horizontal.
The
"Task Rotation" method
What we have shown you may seem a little overwhelming, especially
if you are a newcomer. How, you may ask, can anybody completely
detail a car if only a part of a weekend is available? That's
where the task rotation method comes in. It works like this:
Every detailing session includes a thorough
wash treatment of the exterior. Then, on a rotating basis,
another task is performed. One weekend might include doing
the interior. Another may be dedicated to engine detailing.
Subsequent sessions could include a wax job, detailing the
undercarriage and so on. If you are able to keep a consistent
detailing habit of once every two or three weekends, you will
develop a schedule that suits your needs.
Everyone needs a goal . . .
For the experienced car detailer, the car has
to look "right". That may seem to be a vague statement,
but there really is no better way to put it. It's the little
things that add up. A detailing regiment that avoids scratches
will prevent the surface from looking dull. Although it may
not be obvious, seeing to the complete removal of all wax
residues is also important.
Detailing can also be overdone. This is where
a lot of detailers feel that dressings can be abused. If a
car is too shinny, it does not look natural or "right".
You may choose to use one of the special concoctions for cleaning
the tires for example. But tire rubber does not naturally
have the high gloss that results from using some of these
products.
When
you are finished detailing the car, take a few minutes to
look at it from a variety of angles. Think it over. And ask
yourself, "Does it look 'right'?"
The Big Wrap Up . . .
The products and techniques we've talked about
here are best thought of as suggestions. They are by no means
the final word on the subject. It is however, what we have
found works well and feel comfortable with. But we encourage
you to experiment, observe the results and make your own judgments.
This is what a good detailer does. In doing so, you will become
a better detailer and your car will look better.
So
why do we do it? It is a lot of work. Family and neighbors
question your sanity. No matter how good a job you do, there
is room for improvement. And the harder you work, the quicker
a mud puddle or tree sap undoes it.
Some
people justify it by the envious reactions of friends and
strangers who wish their cars looked half as good. Others
point to the resale value of a car in excellent condition
and insist that they are merely protecting their investment.
Individuals who use left-brain reasoning will tell you that
a properly detailed car lasts longer.
But
those who use such reasoning are missing the point. And if
you consider washing your car to be a chore, then you are,
shall we say, "not with the program". The real reason
can be found in the automobile experience itself. Anybody
can own a car. But having respect for the machinery by keeping
it new despite the ravages of time, - well, that takes someone
special.
Credits and Special Thanks:
Automobile enthusiasts who have generously
contributed their tips and secrets for keeping a car looking
good.
Article
reprinted in its entirety from http://www.web-cars.com/
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